The TV chef gathers salt from a sauce dish with all the fingers of
one hand—spreading the white on the beef broth surface. Bright
cubes land steadily, the weight of sand on a crop duster’s swathe of
bobbing vegetables. They boil like a mob of striped gulls in a
parking lot—chasing itself, folding, turning, re-folding. Texture
melts into texture, dissolves in the bubbling brew.